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Author Topic: tire pressure  (Read 363 times)
Sandy
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« Reply #15 on: November 02, 2017, 10:11:36 PM »

So, which oil do you guys used on your tires?  Evil Evil

Ohhhh it looks like this is the start of a long cold winter. LOL.
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MJ
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« Reply #16 on: November 02, 2017, 11:32:03 PM »

That got dumb fast. An oil thread, lol. It’s about air pressure not tire brand, duh.
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Galactica
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« Reply #17 on: November 03, 2017, 02:48:13 AM »

That got dumb fast. An oil thread, lol. It’s about air pressure not tire brand, duh.

It could be that tires with modern rubber compounds prefer synthetic oil, regardless of pressure.
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79 Kz1000 LTD
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hardrockminer
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« Reply #18 on: November 03, 2017, 09:54:16 AM »

Your Z1 does what?

"why don't tire MFR's specify tire pressure based on loading ..."  There is a chart on the rear inner fender of all Z1 bikes that specifies tire pressure.  It then suggests a higher pressure for two up riding or for heavy riders.

That was my point - the label (which all bikes have) only applies to the tires that originally came with the bike.

Ahh!  I see my mistake now.  You said "why don't  TIRE manufacturers..."  I misread that and thought it was BIKE manufacturers.  Sorry about that.  I thought the cataract surgery would improve my vision but I guess not! Embarrassed
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Past rides include a 1973 Suzuki GT380 & a 1975 Kawasaki Z1B

I currently ride a 1975 Kawasaki Z1B - Classic Plated
I also ride a 1980 Kawasaki KZ 1000 LTD - Classic Plated
I'm currently restoring a Z1B

My Sweetums rides a 1981 Kawasaki KZ550 LTD
Bucko
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« Reply #19 on: November 03, 2017, 11:20:23 AM »

It could be that tires with modern rubber compounds prefer synthetic oil, regardless of pressure.

Bad idea; synthetic oil will make your tires leak.
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MJ
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« Reply #20 on: November 03, 2017, 12:00:13 PM »



do the math
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kaw74
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« Reply #21 on: November 03, 2017, 01:00:06 PM »

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d64XP3Ha044
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hardrockminer
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« Reply #22 on: November 03, 2017, 01:17:10 PM »


They should have hired a midget to do that film.  He would have needed to bend over to be in the camera.
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Past rides include a 1973 Suzuki GT380 & a 1975 Kawasaki Z1B

I currently ride a 1975 Kawasaki Z1B - Classic Plated
I also ride a 1980 Kawasaki KZ 1000 LTD - Classic Plated
I'm currently restoring a Z1B

My Sweetums rides a 1981 Kawasaki KZ550 LTD
Jodea
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« Reply #23 on: November 03, 2017, 03:45:57 PM »

Tire manufacturers have their pressure suggestions listed on their websites. They are usually a couple of pounds higher than what is listed  under the seat, or where ever the decal is hiding. Do a google search and you shall find.
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MJ
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« Reply #24 on: November 04, 2017, 04:02:14 PM »

....or I think I'll give this a try

A technique for those wanting to get the most out of their tires on the street is to use the 10/20% rule.

First check the tire pressure when the tire is cold. Then take a ride on your favorite twisty piece of road. Then, measure the tire pressure immediately after stopping. If the pressure has risen less than 10% on the front or 20% on the rear, the rider should remove air from the tire. So for example, starting at a front tire pressure of 32.5 psi should bring you up to 36 psi hot. Once you obtain this pressure increase for a given rider, bike, tire, road and road temperature combination, check the tire pressure again while cold and record it for future reference.

Each manufacturer is different. Each tire model is different. A tire design that runs cooler needs to run a lower pressure (2-3 psi front) to get up to optimum temperature. The rear tire runs hotter than the front tire, road and track. So the rear tire cold-to-hot increase is greater. Dropping air pressure has the additional side effect of scrubbing more rubber area.
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Galactica
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« Reply #25 on: November 04, 2017, 04:29:59 PM »

....or I think I'll give this a try

A technique for those wanting to get the most out of their tires on the street is to use the 10/20% rule.

First check the tire pressure when the tire is cold. Then take a ride on your favorite twisty piece of road. Then, measure the tire pressure immediately after stopping. If the pressure has risen less than 10% on the front or 20% on the rear, the rider should remove air from the tire. So for example, starting at a front tire pressure of 32.5 psi should bring you up to 36 psi hot. Once you obtain this pressure increase for a given rider, bike, tire, road and road temperature combination, check the tire pressure again while cold and record it for future reference.

Each manufacturer is different. Each tire model is different. A tire design that runs cooler needs to run a lower pressure (2-3 psi front) to get up to optimum temperature. The rear tire runs hotter than the front tire, road and track. So the rear tire cold-to-hot increase is greater. Dropping air pressure has the additional side effect of scrubbing more rubber area.

You gotta be really pushing hard, like on a race track, to use the 10% rule. Few of us would run hard enough to get consistent readings to truly aplly the 10% rule.
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79 Kz1000 LTD
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Galactica
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« Reply #26 on: November 14, 2017, 03:27:03 PM »

OK. Here’s the dope from Dunlop.

Unless you’re running radial tires, the tire construction basically has remained basically the same as the 70s & 80s. While the rubber compounds and tread designs may have changed, bias ply tires of today are not much different from back in the day. Because there is no test data of older (70s) bikes with new tires, Dunlop says to use the motorcycle manufacturer’s pressure recommendations. They will say no more than that.
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79 Kz1000 LTD
79 Kz1000 Police
73 z1 900
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